Fortunately, for any model lacking its own range of guide bushes, it is always possible to buy or make an auxiliary sub-base to take another manufacturer’s guide bushes. This is less important if the router is bought exclusively for table use.Ī good range of guide bushes is a very useful but greatly underrated feature (unless the router is bought exclusively for table use). A substantial fence, with removable rods, adjustable cheeks, and a fine adjuster is desirable. Such models, especially if they are heavyweights, restrict the choice of router table.Ī side fence is a standard accessory with all routers. Some have only the guide bush holes, which may not even be threaded these days. Additionally, most bases have threaded holes to take screw-on accessories or to attach the router to a table. If this is removable it can be easily replaced when worn. Most router bases are fitted with a plastic facing plate. Handles are also all the better for being just that – without also carrying the switch, or the plunge lock, or both. The latter give more leverage and are almost always the type found on heavy-duty routers. The two main types of handle are knobs and side levers. My experience is that the more you use a router the more you favour the separate clamping lever. The general rule is twist-knobs on light-duty routers, separate levers on heavy-duty routers and either on medium-duty routers. There are two basic methods of locking the plunge: a twist-knob handle or a separate clamping lever. Anything deeper than that is a bonus, but anything much shorter could create problems with some operations. If the collet can be plunged to touch the bench top, you can’t really complain. Their ‘plunge depth’, simply tells you how far the router body travels up and down on the plunge legs. Manufacturers’ specifications rarely give any information on this vital point. This is invaluable in regaining the depth of cut lost when the router is used in a table or with a guide bush and template. This is not as efficient as the proper colletĪ few routers allow the collet to be plunged through the router base. Those with the best-engineered type tend to offer corresponding collets for smaller shank sizes those with the poorer type tend to offer reducing sleeves for narrower-shank cutters. Poorer collets are made from a cone-shaped lump of steel which is often too shallow to grip much of the cutter shank, wears quite quickly, causes cutter chatter, and makes hard work of the cut. The best collets are precision made from tempered steel, and taper to fit into a tapered motor shaft. Switches that cannot be locked in the ‘ON’ position create problems for some hand-held operations and for table routing.įor heavy-duty work, especially in a router table, the larger the base aperture the better, to allow large diameter cutters to pass through and to give good visibility when working. With a heavy-duty router, bought for general use, I would not consider a single-speed model.Īs far as I am concerned the simpler the switch the better. In addition you get the great benefit of a ‘soft start’ when you switch on. It gives more versatility in the use of larger diameter cutters, and enables other materials such as plastics and alloys to be cut at the correct speed. If, however, you plan to do much work with the router mounted in a table, the more power the better because routers tend to be worked much harder in a table.įor all but the lightweight models, variable speed is an advantage. You need adequate power to meet your specified woodworking goals, but the benefit of high power has to be set against the disadvantage of using a heavy router for handwork. the lightweight DIY models won’t be much help. Conversely, if you are working commercially, making kitchen cabinets, fitted wardrobes etc. If your main interest is toy making or small boxes, you will not want a cumbersome heavyweight. The overriding factor will be what sort of woodworking you want to do. This article sets out the various factors to take into account when choosing a router. To the uninitiated all routers look much alike but the difference is in the details and the details make all the difference. It has become a cliché that “the router is the most versatile tool in the workshop” but this is only true if it does the work that you want it to do.
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